Is it possible to infuse a little ancient Italy into the Barbarian hoard and not revisit the fall of the Empire? Is Rome really worth the worth risk of travelling with children?
From the potential brain damage- to yourself from a wine-addled attempt to drown out the “I’m hot-tired-hungry-and bored-with-churches,” voice of descent that emerges from the husband before the kids have even started; to the young ‘uns, stroller-bound and bounced from pizza across cobblestoned piazza to good-behavior gelato? And then there’s that difficult age when they are walking- lasts until late teens. Is there really enough in Rome to keep everyone happy?
Is the Pope Catholic?
Si! Si! Si! Rome is worth it: and here are a few handy hints to help your trip go as smoothly as the well-worn Roman road, while travelling with la famiglia.
1) ROME WASN’T SEEN IN A DAY…
I remember very little about school math and recently, whilst doing homework with my son, had to google, ‘What is a prime number?’ “Aren’t adults supposed to know this stuff? He queried, noticing my furtive keyboarding. One equation however, that I never forget is this: while travelling in Rome with kids: location + location = vacation.
Even for a few extra Euros per night, book a hotel walking distance to famous sights, restaurants and shops. This will minimize wasted turn-around time from room to roam. And for short stays, a hotel beats an apartment because the front desk is great to have on hand for English directions, restaurant recommendations, taxis etc.
Research is key- be closest to the things that YOU most want to see or do. In Rome your best blackmail buddies- gelato, pizza and red, red wine, are always close at hand…
Remember too- jetlag can be your best friend… leave the husband and kids in bed with their zzz’s, while you duck out to spend some $$$’s. Quietly thank God for Italian coffee and head for the seven hills.
Ciao Bambino is a great website that has advice on all things family-friendly and for well-located hotels in Rome, follow this link:
For shopping follow this one:
2) KNOW WHAT YOU REALLY, REALLY WANT
Don’t save the best spot for last!
It helps if you hit the cobbles with your own personal wish list ordered both geographically and in order of diminishing importance. Even with lavishly applied feminine guile, generous helpings of bribery served semi-frozen and fruit flavoured- sadly, somewhere, compromise may be needed. So slide your churches, frescoes and breathtaking architectural masterpieces in between… the more popular ‘family’ options.
3) Gore, Guts, Bones and Blood- The Winning Family Combination.
That’s the great thing about the ancient Romans- they knew long before Quentin Tarantino, that kids and adults alike love this stuff. Remember the 3 C’s!
Colosseum: Doesn’t need much introduction, but it’s good to know it is smack-bang in the center of Rome- just east of the Roman Forum. Hide the fact that it is one of the greatest examples of Roman architecture and engineering and focus on the evil Emperors, gladiators and fierce man-eating beasts. AND- here’s something I recently discovered on line that my kids will definitely be enrolled in next time we hit Rome: Gladiator School! It’s a two-hour private lesson conducted by members of the Historic Group of Rome. One of the great things about having kids (I know- it’s not a very long list) is getting to try out these things one’s self. I will be gearing up. Can’t wait! Note, it is located on the Appian way. www.viator.com/gladiator-school.
Catacombs of Rome: There are about forty dark, ghoulish and creepy ancient underground burial tunnels or chambers under Rome. Don’t mention this to the kids, (unless they are into art) but the Christian and Jewish catacombs are extremely significant for their examples of early fresco and sculpture art history! The two best known are quite close to each other on the Appian Way. The largest, the Catacomb of St. Callisto (Catacombe di San Callisto) dates from the 2nd century A.D. and has colorful early Christian symbols and graffiti (fun for kids to detect). Highlights include the crypt of nine popes. Closed on Wednesdays and all of February. The Catacombs of St. Sebastian (Catacombe di San Sebastiano) are not far away in a basilica built by Constantine. Both Saint Peter and Paul’s bodies were hidden here for a while. Inside the catacomb is a marble slab imprinted with Christ’s feet (hmm). And there are also many early Christian mosaics and graffiti here too- the walls are covered in images of doves and fish. St. Sebastian is closed Sundays and half of November and December. Lastly, the Catacombs of Priscilla, are among Rome's oldest, and are located on Via Salaria- on another of Rome's ancient roads leading to, Porta Salaria, and the Adriatic Sea. The bigger passages might make them less scary for younger children. Closed on Mondays and in January.
Crypt of the Capuchin Monks is tucked beneath the Church, ‘Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione’ right off the designer-chic shopping street Via Veneto. The crypt contains bones of over 4,000 monks, some stacked to form ‘furniture,’ others dressed in their earthly capuchin robes, most arranged in strangely compelling designs- winged skulls and artistic crucifixes…even light fittings! The final small chapel reveals the true significance of the gastly art- not so much macabre, but a reminder of the swift passage of life on Earth “As you are, we once were. As we are, you will someday be.” Closed on Thursdays…. And for God’s sake, carpe diem!
Suggested Itineraries
ONE) Trevi Fountain (Piazza di Trevi). I have my suspicions that the seed for my deep and abiding obsession with ‘getting back to Italy’ just may have been planted one long ago summer, when I nudged my way through the July crowds to cast my coin with determination. Sure enough, the hues of that Tuscan summer- vivid in muted colours, moved right on into my soul and made themselves permanently at home. Now, a hopeless addict, I must get back to that darned fountain- just in case! Interesting fact: 3000 Euros are collected a day and given to charity, so clearly I am not alone. These days the kids have fun too- although it’s more of a coin throwing competition! And my husband- well he saves his coins for the wine at lunch… Then explore in and around the Pantheon, which sounds and looks rather Greek. Its recent incarnation was completed 126AD! 2000 years and it still the largest un-reinforced concrete dome in the world. Piazza Navona is lined with cafes, artisans- oh yeah and a Bernini fountain! Nearby is the ‘oh lets look in there’ moment, at the church of San Luigi dei Francesi (mark it on your personal map so you know which way to head from Piazza Navona), with its dramatic Caravaggio paintings of St Matthew. Campo de' Fiori and the adjoining Piazza Farnese are great spots for lunch, if a wee bit touristy. Try to follow the Italians… avoid restaurants with people calling you in is a good start. You can also ‘happen upon’ Via del Governo Vecchio's vintage shops. Perfetto!
TWO) The Vatican: Let me tell you! I have never felt so much like a ‘yummy mummy’ as when I got turned away at the Vatican for being dressed inappropriately- shorts were (just) above the knee. My husband thought all his Christmas’ had come at once (for avoiding the Vatican not- sadly- for seeing my knees. In fact if I recall correctly he asked “Are they new”?). Anyway, I have found when I am in Rome (could be my positive ‘new age’ frame of mind when I am there- could be the alcohol) where there’s a will- there’s a way! And holy hawker! W
Wouldn’t you know it? A guy was selling sarongs to similarly attired yummy mummies nearby! Motto: hems down, shoulders covered, scarves at the ready when visiting the Vatican! And oh yeah… have faith!
So it was, that at the Vatican museum, the children saw wild animals and men with broken willies- masterpieces in marble. And better yet, in the Vatican Necropolis, (one of the holiest sites in Rome) they saw tombs of famous popes and saints including St. Peter. The Sistine chapel was slightly lost on them – but where there’s life in me and art in Italy, there’s the hope of symbiosis for my barbarian children! The jury is still out on what Daddy saw… but he washed it all down with that much longed for wine at lunch! The dome is well worth the climb up- as much for the energy burn off as for the magnificent view over the Eternal City. (There is always a queue, but it moves).
Avoid queues as much as possible by booking in advance- this site is excellent (for all bookings): http://www.tickitaly.com
THREE) Ancient Rome and The Spanish Steps: Ancient history in Rome is layered like the tiramisu, sweet and guaranteed to pull anyone sleep-walking through life, out of their wasteful stupor… No city on earth is so full of reminders to grab your life by the horns and live in the ‘now.’ Ancient Rome probably makes much more sense with a guide- next time we will have one! Bocca della Verità , the legendary ‘Mouth of Truth,’ was a real highlight for my expectant family as they waited for each other’s hands to be gobbled up. The Colloseum. The Spanish Steps: Europe’s widest staircase. Someone still managed to hit me on the head with a red rose, which I took to be an auspicious sign… (Mind you- I’m still waiting for the auspicious-ness to manifest).
There is so much more- but this is a start. You can be sure there will be updates! I LOVE Rome. The sacred and profane are so close in this city that you feel you can stretch out your arms and touch both simultaneously with your fingertips. Chaos and structure, ancient ruins and modern traffic, lovers and lovers at war- it feels OK to be flawed and human here, it feels OK to have barbarians here, it feels OK to be me here.
